(中文翻译版) PP主席: 会有5711的纪念(隐退)版

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:23:33

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-15 15:00 编辑

大家都知道前一阵子5711停产的传言, 这次PP主席在媒体上澄清停产的消息了, 这个对表圈意义深远, 我很喜欢阅读这种新闻, 翻译过来给大家参考. 之后我会加入我自己的解读, 原文中英文版如下 (英文版为原版, 版权属于NZZ, 中文版为本人翻译.)

Patek Philippe's President: «Therewill be a farewell-series of the Nautilus 5711»
百达翡丽主席: 会有5711的纪念版!Through the indiscretion of a retailer, itbecame known that PatekPhilippe is discontinuing the production of its mostsought-after watch. In aninterview with the NZZ, Thierry Stern, Patek'sPresident comments on thisdecision for the first time.
因为经销商的泄露, 全世界都知道百达翡丽要停产被大家喜爱的5711了, 百达翡丽主席(TS)头一次对媒体NZZ公开评论此次事件.

Mr. Stern, in recent days there has been ahuge buzz among watchfans because it was announced that Patek Philippediscontinues the production ofthe Nautilus 5711 in steel.

When did you make this decision?
NZZ采访: 您什么时候做的这项决定
I knew as early as 2019 that we would haveto stop soon, because wehad already produced many 5711s and the demand kept increasing.But I also knewthat this would be a difficult step for a «talking piece» likethe Nautilus,although such a production stop is nothing unique.
TS: 早在2019我就知道我们要尽快停产5711, 我们造了太多5711, 需求还在升温, 但我们知道走出这一步不容易, 虽然这跟停产别的百达翡丽手表没什么两样.

Why are you stopping the Nautilus 5711?
NZZ采访, 您为什么要停产5711?

For one thing, I don't want a single modelto suddenly make up 50%or more of our collection and dominate Patek's image.It has happened to us inthe past that we produced too many examples of onemodel, and I didn't want thatto happen again. Secondly, we have an obligationto our customers: It's notenough to make the most beautiful watches in theworld. I also have to make surethat they retain their value, and rarity is oneof the keys to that. For thecustomers who invest in Patek, that's important.In addition, discontinuing amodel allows us to make something new again. Wecan't just rest, we have toevolve and keep impressing people.
TS: 首先, 我不想要单一型号, 占超过一半的产品线, 并主导百达翡丽形象, 原来我们曾有过某单一型号产量过多, 我们不希望重蹈覆辙. 其次, 我们的职责不仅是制造出来最好看的手表, 而且我们要保证它们可以保值, 稀缺度是关键. 对于炒百达翡丽表的人来说, 这个太重要了. 另外, 停产某款手表可以让我们有所突破, 我们不能光吃老本, 我们也需要迭代满足消费者.

Were the activities of speculators also areason? After all,Nautilus watches are sometimes bought with the sole goal toresell them at aprofit on the gray market.
NZZ采访,炒作是停产因素之一么? 毕竟很多人都觉得买5711就是为了赚快钱.
No, because I can't fight that anyway. Justlook at what hashappened now. Since our decision became known, the gray marketprices for theNautilus have risen even further. But that's part of the game, Iguess: When youtake a desirable model off the market, parallel trading takesadvantage of it. Itry to avoid it, but I can't control everything with myteam.
TS: No, 你看看现在二级市场你就知道, 那些我们根本就控制不了, 从大家知道我们要停产, 这表竟然跳涨, 我想这种情况也正常吧,停产热门表就这样, 贩子会炒新炒断, 我们团队对此无能为力.

And what about the people who are alreadyon the waiting lists?
NZZ采访, 那现在还在”排队”的用户咋办?
Some will go away empty-handed. We arestill delivering some 5711s,but we are not talking about thousands of watches.
TS:有的铁定拿不到了, 不过我们还在造5711,不过所剩无几了.

So disappointment is inevitable.
NZZ采访,那有些人要骂娘了

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:25:08

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-14 13:00 编辑

That's true, but I think our retailers havea responsibility here. They know exactly how many pieces they are getting.However, they seem to find it difficult to tell a customer that he probably hasno chance of getting a Nautilus. Instead, they put him on the waiting list, andit gets longer and longer. It's too easy to just say that it's Patek Philippe'sfault, that they simply don't produce enough watches.
TS: 是呀, 我们的经销商必须给用户解释, 但是这个锅也不好背, 有的甚至帅锅给pp.

What do you expect from your retailers?
NZZ采访, 那你希望经销商做些什么呢
A professional retailer is able to explainto his customers why we are stopping production. He has to explain that we onlyproduce about 60 000 watches a year, split up into about 140 different models,including the Nautilus. And that it is impossible to produce enough to meet thedemand. After all, no one seriously wants me to greatly increase Nautilusproduction at the expense of quality, just to make a little more money.
TS: 比较好的经销商会解释pp将要停产, 他们可能会说pp每年产6万只手表, 给140多个型号, pp不可能满足所有螺的需求, 毕竟没人真想要我们以牺牲质量为代价提升产量, 就是为了多赚点儿钱.

Have you already stopped production?
NZZ采访,那你已经停产5711了么
No, we are producing the last 5711s rightnow, I don't even know exactly how many. But soon it will be over.
TS: 我们正在造最后几批5711, 我不知道具体数字, 不过离停产也不远了. (官方坐实停产)

The excitement in the watch communityprobably also has something to do with the fact that the production stop wasnot communicated, but became known through rumors. It wasn't planned that way,was it?
NZZ采访,表圈炸锅跟这次停产没官宣, 而从小道消息来的有关, 这个不是计划的一部分对吧?
We did it the same way with this Nautilusas we always do: the retailers get a list of the models we're discontinuing,the so-called run-outs. Our plan was to communicate this to the outside world afterwards:nothing big, just a short message, as always. But stupidly, one retailer inItaly sent the list to a friend, who then published the news on Instagram. Andthat's how people started talking. That was harmful, but that has now happened.I prefer to look at it another way: Patek has about 400 retailers worldwide,and more than 99% have kept tight. That's fantastic.
You then refrained from making an official announcement.
TS: 我们每次停产都会给经销商发个停产表, 我们的计划是稍后才有官宣, 并且通常比较低调. 但是意大利的猪队友( 今年AP泄露也是意大利, 意大利太NB了) 把这个消息给了一哥们, 这哥们转手发Instagram了, 然后就没有然后了. 这个影响比较恶略, 不过我觉得其他经销商表现的还不错, 毕竟99%都恪守承诺.

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:27:06

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-14 13:08 编辑

What else could we have said? It was clearto me: If we want to communicate now, we'll do it this way with you. That'smore professional for me, and that should be enough.

TS, 我们还能说啥, 如果我们现在要官宣, 那就跟你NZZ一起来吧, 毕竟这样专业点.

What comes after the Nautilus 5711?

NZZ采访, 那5711之后会又啥?

You don't let a model like this expirewithout having something new up your sleeve. But I won't talk about that untilwe launch the watch. What I can tell you, however, is that we like to saygoodbye to special watch models with a little surprise. There will therefore bea farewell-series of the 5711, which will be a little different. These watcheswill be produced soon and will be launched this year. I already know that thiswill be another nightmare in terms of demand, but I'm counting on my retailers.

TS: 我们通常不会不发布改款就停产一个型号, 不过发布之前我就不谈这个了. 我们会给大家点惊喜, 我们会有5711隐退版, 会有点不一样, 今年就会发布! 我知道我们的经销商又要疯了面对排队的用户.

And when will the successor model belaunched?

NZZ采访, 那后继型号会什么时候发布?

To be honest, we haven't finished discussing that internally yet. There are still small details I'm thinkingabout, because when you launch a new watch, it should always be a littlebetter, even if it's just small details.You've said before that you don't want amodel to be dominant. What does that mean in terms of units?

TS, 这么说吧, 我们内部都还没决定好呢, 有些细节有待推敲, 因为你发布新款的时候, 通常都会进步一些, 即使只是细节.

You've said before that you don't want amodel to be dominant. What does that mean in terms of units?

TS: 你之前说过你不想让任何一款作为压倒性的热款, 那有没有具体参量的限制么?

We don't talk about unit numbers ofindividual models, but I don't want us to have more than a third steel watches.The steel Nautilus makes up a big part of that quota, and I don't like that.Take the Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet. That's a great watch, but at a certainpoint it becomes dangerous when one model becomes too dominant. People's tastecan suddenly change, and then you have no alternatives to offer. I want toavoid that at all costs with Patek.

TS 我们不说产量, 不过我不想让钢表超过产量三分之一, 然而钢螺已经用了这三分之一的很大一部分了. 其实我根本不想这样, 举个AP的例子(有点讥讽的意思), 虽然皇家橡树很NB, 但如果单一表款太火那就有危险了, 什么时候大家审美一变, 那表厂就玩完了! 我可不想让pp这样.

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:39:40

腕表之家这发帖体验实在太差了...

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:41:00

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-14 13:01 编辑

Sporty, robust steel watches withintegrated bracelets are becoming increasingly popular. Do you want todeliberately buck the trend?

NZZ采访,钢款运动表现在越来越流行, 你想谈谈流行趋势么?

此部分英文不知何故无法粘贴

TS: 人们永远都会喜欢钢表的, 又便宜, 我们又好卖, 如果我们满足于此, 以后金表就没人接盘了, 有的品牌就吃过这个亏, 他们以后再玩高端根本就没戏了. 趋势我们不能猜测, 我们要保持造金表, 铂金的这个逼格!

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:41:23

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-14 13:03 编辑

How do you feel about new materials such ascarbon or titanium?

NZZ采访, 那您对新材料怎么看, 比如NTPT或者钛 ?

I am very interested in new materials whenit comes to making our movements smaller, thinner or more accurate. But when itcomes to the case, carbon would be a step backwards for me. We had to work veryhard to get into the gold and platinum league, and that's where we should stay.My father told me years ago, «Leave these materials to Hublot and the others,they do a good job.» I think he's right, also because we can't do everything.

TS, 我对新材料很感兴趣, 这样能把机芯做的更小, 更薄, 也更准, 不过如果我们说表壳, 那玩NTPT对我来说就是后退不是进步, 我们必须玩高逼格的圈层, 而且我们就想一直这么玩! 我爸爸就说过, “让宇舶玩新材料去吧,那是他们的地盘.”

However, there is at least one PatekPhilippe in titanium. (5208T, 孤品)

NZZ采访, 但是, 百达翡丽不是也出国钛的手表么? (打脸)

Very rarely we make an exception, but onlyfor a good cause, when the goal is to make as much money as possible. Forexample, we made a titanium model of our Grand Complication Ref. 5208, which isotherwise made in gold, for the charitable watch auction «Only Watch» in 2017,and it was then auctioned off for 6,2 million Swiss francs.

TS, 我们很少会有这种例外, 而目标是为了割韭菜, 比如我们弄了个5208T做孤品拍卖, 然后拍了 6百20万瑞郎.

How well did Patek do during the Coronayear?

NZZ采访,PP应对疫情如何?

2020 was not our best year, but it wasokay. We had to close production for two months. After that, we continued toproduce normally, but we decided to postpone the launch of most of our newproducts until 2021 and instead continue with the proven models . At the end ofthe year, we were a good 20% down in terms of sales, but that's not a problem,because as a long-standing family business, you're prepared for such things andhave reserves. My father has experienced two crises in which business suddenlyplummeted by 50%.

TS: 2020实鼠不易, 我们停产了两个月, 不过我们当时决定不到2021我们不发布重要的新款. 在2020销售下降了两成, 不过这个并无大碍, 我们是独立品牌,我们有预案应对, 我爸爸当时就应对过两次超过50%的灾难(说的应该是石英危机)

But what you produced in 2020 you were ableto sell?

NZZ采访 , 2020年产的表卖的咋样?

I just got the latest figures, and apartfrom a few hundred units, everything has been sold. We couldn't have done it onour own under these circumstances, but our partners were very creative. That'swhy it's so important to work with good retailers.

TS, 我刚拿到数据, 除了几百只没卖掉, 别的都卖了. 我们的经销商很有创意,我们全靠他们了, 这也是我们必须要跟好的经销商一起做生意的原因.

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:41:41

本帖最后由 neogump 于 2021-2-14 12:55 编辑

To my knowledge, online sales were also anissue at Patek during this crisis – for the first time ever.

NZZ采访, 据我所知, pp线上销售目前还没有啊

During the first lockdown, we tried tosupport our retailers by temporarily allowing them to sell our watches over theInternet. But to everyone's surprise, that didn't work at all. To my knowledge,just two watches were sold this way. This also shows that the customer is notwilling to buy a Patek Philippe over the Internet, and I am quite happy aboutthat.

TS 第一次停产的时候, 我们允许过我们的经销商线上卖表, 不过出乎大家意料, 这一点都没用! 线上只卖了两只表, 我们也向我们的用户证明了pp不是这么卖表的. 我其实挺高兴的!

Do you think that in 2021 you will be ableto match the pre-crisis sales of 2019?

NZZ采访, 您觉得2021会回复到2019的业绩么?

No, I don't think so. We will hopefully be betterthan in 2020, but it will remain difficult because 2021 won't be a normal yearyet. There is still a lot of anxiety because it is unclear how quickly we willmake progress with the vaccines and how well they will also work against themutations of the coronavirus.

TS, 我觉得没戏 , 也许能比2020年好, 今年可能还不会马上恢复常态, 疫苗和病毒变异情况扑朔迷离.

At least Patek is not dependent ontourists.

NZZ采访, 至少pp的业绩不依赖游客

That's true, because it has always beenclear to us that we don't have enough watches to serve tourists in addition toour local clientele. Of course, we accept travelers as customers, but it wouldn'tbe fair to sell a 5711 to a tourist. A retailer should sell that watch to oneof his customers – one he knows appreciates the watch; not to someone hedoesn't know and never sees again after the sale.

TS, 是的, 我们一直优先给本地客人(老爷子可能跟现实有点脱节), 当然我们也不是完全不卖游客, 经销商应该卖给更懂表的熟客.

Until 2019, Patek Philippe presented itsnew products at the watch fair «Baselworld» each year, and you also took themajority of your orders there. 2021 will be the second year without a majorSwiss watch fair. How do you sell your watches now?

NZZ采访, 直到2019,p一直巴塞尔表展, 但是今年恐怕没有大型的表展了, 您打算怎么应对.

We will launch some of our new models atthe virtual watch show «Watches & Wonders Geneva» in April. The collectionis also ready to be shipped to distributors, who will then present the watchesto the retailers. This might take some time, because depending on whichcoronavirus rules will be in force, the retailers may have to come one by one.There will not be a big event where we will present all the novelties.

TS, 我们会在今年四月份 WatchWonder Geneva 发布一部分新品 (小伙伴们记好了),那时候货也可以分了, 不过速度取决于疫情和物流, 我们不会搞大会把所有新品一起上了.

Are you looking forward to real trade showsagain, or do you think they are no longer needed?

NZZ采访, 您还希望以后pp参加大会么?

There are three options: one big trade showa year, various small, geographically dispersed trade shows, or pure multimediaevents. Personally, I think real trade shows are important to meet the press,the retailers and maybe the end customers. Currently, the goal is for us tohave one big trade show in Geneva. If that doesn't work out, I might go todifferent fairs throughout the year, with virtual events inbetween.

NZZ采访未来可能有三种模式, 一年一次的大会, 各种区域的小会, 或者干脆全线上发. 我们现在还想参加一年一次的大会, 如果大会没了, 以后可能在不同时间搞不同的小会, 穿插一些线上发布.

neogump · 发表于北京 2021-2-14 12:48:08

英语好的可以阅读原文:
https://www.nzz.ch/wirtschaft/pa ... 00939#back-register
还有其他几个出处在聊同一篇内容:
https://monochrome-watches.com/m ... ippe-nautilus-5711/
https://www.hodinkee.com/article ... ippes-thierry-stern
https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=788959

徐kk · 发表于台湾 2021-2-14 12:51:11

是的確可以了解pp的想法，只是他們的情況我認為不能完全說擔心和ap一樣，pp今天是擔心金鷹會奪走了calatrava或其他系列的風采，而ap本來就是以皇橡為主而code或其他系列為輔。若真消費者喜好外型改變，那他們怎麼不擔心他們經典的calatrava外型？

Mark7997 · 发表于浙江宁波 2021-2-14 13:13:28

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