Choosing your watch.

老朱--- · 发表于河南南阳 2011-9-20 11:24:12

Choosing a watch in terms of brand, style, case material as well as function is a very personal thing. I really don't want to make some direct comparison, otherwise, some non-sense and angry discussion will come up very quickly and in the end of the day it is in vain. Therefore, I'd suggest that before throwing your money out, do consider some major factors that will influence your decision-making processes by yourself.
For me, I will consider at least the following factors:
1. Why do I buy this watch? An everyday beater? A weekend watch? A very formal dress watch? A sport watch? A watch just for collection?
2. Brand. Brands are both objectively and subjectively categorized in various leagues. For example, people are used to compare a Patek with a Vacheron or a Lange, but not with a Tissot or a Casio, it is because different watch companies target different market segments, thus they have different image. Brand image is a very important asset for a manufacture, the almost monopoly status of noble brand Patek Philippe has been formed through the super image of the manufacture during the past more than 150 years. Of course nothing is free, for the image, you have to pay a lot of premium. Is the brand image important for you as a consumer? You should make your choice.

老朱--- · 发表于河南南阳 2011-9-20 11:24:45

3. Style. Round case is the most common and "safe" choice. The JLC Reverso case could, nevertheless, turn out very elegant and attractive on some people. Try the watch and decide which case style suits you.
4. Case material. Some people like white metal, such as PT, white gold and stainless steel. White metal is understated and elegant. For the others is the pink gold, yellow gold warmer and richer. Which material is better for you? Only you know the answer. I personally prefer silvery over golden color.
5. Value keeping. Resale value is the thing that most collectors consider. Generally, Patek Philippe keeps its value very well (70%* of its international list for a Calatrava) following by Lange (60%*). Most models from VC, AP and Breguet keep their value relatively worse. Some limited models from AP Offshore keep very good value. JLC keeps its value similiar to AP and VC. I'd like to draw your attention that value keeping should not be the only criterion on watch picking. There are millions of better ways to invest your money. (*based on subjective but long-term observation.)
6. Service fee. It could be very expensive to have your watch serviced. A routine service for a simple Calatrava or Lange costs around 400-500 EUR. For complications, you should expect doubled budget. Some other lower end brands are cheaper to be serviced. If money won't be a problem for you, please forget this factor.

老朱--- · 发表于河南南阳 2011-9-20 11:25:19

In my very personal view, I'd buy a steel higher-end watch than a gold lower-end watch. For example: I perfer a steel JLC to a gold Longines. You know why? Gold doesn't make a Longines a Patek, but a steel JLC is still a JLC!
Generally, Patek Philippe, A. Lange & Söhne, Vacheron Constantion, Audemars Piguet and Breguet have the best reputation in terms of hand finishing, styling and history. These nobel brands can be considered in the same league, although Patek is untill today still the clearly number one. A. Lange & Söhne has a very good chance to further develop its already excellent reputation.
JLC, one of very few true manufactures, is considered as a very good value in the higher hologerie world. The finishing of JLCs, nevertheless, are to be improved. You will find a significant difference in the finishing level between a normal JLC and a normal model from above mentioned big five. I like JLC personally and Reverso is the face of the JLC.
Besides, Chopard makes incredible good LUC cal. 1.96, very much recomended. Blanpain and Glasshütte Original are, if I am allowed to say, "cheaper" substitutes for Breguet and A. Lange & Söhne respectively. I am personally not going to save that money if I am already so far away out.
Rolex is a reliable daily wear. A good watch I don't really like, but the vintage Rolex is more beautiful in my opinion.
Feel free to give your opinions.
(I am sorry for the possible understanding problems due to the language, but I am not home now.)

拥抱明天 · 发表于河南南阳 2011-9-20 14:29:55

写得好！

其实很多事情是由市场的效应来决定的！
先说一下材质：
试问一下Grisar：钢的Nautilus和金的1815 ，哪一个对你吸引力更大一些？
116520到目前为止，ROLEX都不知道做出来多少了，但结果一样无法按定价入手（据说在祖国大陆是唯一的例外）！

历史的沉淀：LUC cal. 1.96内在，外在都是一流！谈到性价比，我本人觉得它是最好的小三针，可它的定价跟大牌比起来，就是不高！10年来的努力， LUC系列的定价一直都要比TOP 5同级别机芯低一些，但我觉得将来 Chopard会拿出这个勇气来！

虽然，Grisar对Rolex不是很喜欢。但必须得承认，二手市场（拍卖市场）上，PP第一，Rolex第二，其它的品牌比都没法比！而对于绝大多数打算多买几款表的表友而言，这是不能不考虑的！光入不出的实力，可不是什么人都有的。