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发表于上海 2018-12-31 10:31:03
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引自Hodinkee
“We can basically start in 1972 with the birth of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. At the time, Audemars Piguet was still making mostly small, complicated dress watches, and was having a hard time selling them. It's hard to fathom today, but by the end of the 1960s, AP was truly teetering on the edge and needed a big idea to pull itself back from the brink. That idea was to create the first high-end, luxury sport watch entirely in stainless steel. This sound**atter-of-fact to us in 2017, but it was anything but at the time.
Reference 15400 is the latest stainless steel Royal Oak, and it is one of the newest branches on a family tree as large as the collection's namesake. Thi**odel was introduced in 2012 and it replaced the smaller ref. 15300, size being the chief distinction between the two, but one that has its importance (more on that later). There is, of course, also the ref. 15202, the so-called "Jumbo." It retains the original 39mm diameter and an ultra-thin design, essentially acting as a reissue of the original 1972 Royal Oak. However, it comes at a price premium, is difficult to get your hands on, and is considered a more niche, collector-focused product. It's great, don't get us wrong (we love the new yellow gold version too), but it's tough to really call it the mainline Royal Oak. That title goes to the ref. 15400.
The history of the Overseas goes all the way back to, believe it or not, 1975, when Vacheron briefly produced a watch known as the reference 2215 or 42001 (the numbering system changed during production), which had an integrated stainless steel bracelet and a sort of squared-off cushion case. However, the best known ancestor to the Overseas was the 222, which launched in 1977 and which was available in three variations at launch.
The Vacheron 222, in particular, is often lumped in with the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, but we now know that to be an oft-perpetuated inaccuracy (despite even Vacheron going with that story for years). It was actually Jorg Hysek who designed the 222 at the beginning of his career. The 222 wasn't very commercially successful when it first launched, but the strange mix of curves and angles and relative rarity have made it a cult classic that's highly collectable these days. It also served as the inspiration for the modern Overseas collection, which carries over much of the original look, but with some notable updates to the bracelet and bezel.” |
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发表于英国 2018-12-31 09:43:05
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