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【远去的记忆】北京手表公众号2014年5月30日推文（英文纪实）
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发表于黑龙江齐齐哈尔 昨天 23:52
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本帖最后由 高平陵 于 2026-01-02 00:09 编辑
老国表最让人惋惜的品牌是「北京表」。
今日起，不定期的让大家回味2014年起北京表公众号的短文。
改制？资本化？兼并？从实际效果看“弊大于利”……
以下为正文（通篇虽客观，但行文却充满了西方人的傲慢）：
2014年5月30日推文-
《ABTW记者零距离测评《无极》三轴立体双陀飞轮腕表》
While elements such as overall aesthetic in many of Beijing Watch Factory's designs are inherently European , they do however take many artistic liberties in producing unique products . The Wu Ji is a glowing and ambitious example of what they can produce . Even though Chinese watch manufacturing is huge , those that can produce credible mechanical watches are still limited and few watch lovers would claim that Chinese - made mechanical movements are excellent .
I am not an expert on all Chinese movements , but I do know that most of them are copies of Swiss movements . The mechanism in the Infinite Universe clearly isn't . While an inspection of the movement makes it clear that this is a Chinese creation , I found many of the unique elements quite interesting . What I love about this watch is how the complications are much more than skin deep . What you see is only half of what you get . First and foremost , I'll explain how you even tell the time .
It would be wrong to look at this watch dial and assume you can read the time as you would on most other round - dialed watches . In fact only the upper half of the dial is used to read the time . A shortened scale for all 12 hours is placed on the top half of the dial , and both the hour and minute hand have retrograde mechanisms that have them jump back to the starting point when necessary . This makes the dial extremely confusing at first if you don't know what you are looking at . I was playing with it to set the time and noticed the hands were jumping around wildly .“Is the watch broken ?” I wondered until I realized what I was seeing . The large bi - axial tourbillon at the bottom of the dial is so tall that the watch maker decided he never wanted the hands to go over it . The double retrograde system for the hour and minute hand is designed to prevent the hands from ever accidentally touching it . The benefit is a watch with such a tourbillon system that does not require a “bubble” in the crystal . At 17.2mm thick , the watch could certainly have been thicker .
The tourbillon element of the Wu Ji is quite amusing . What you have is a bi - axial tourbillon that is basically a smaller tourbillon inside of a larger tourbillon . Then you have a traditional flying tourbillon as a separate element on the dial . I've never before seen a watch with two different types of tourbillons on the dial . It is interesting , to say the least . The traditional tourbillon has a pleasant bird - shaped bridge which I enjoy . In addition to the tourbillons and the unique time telling system , the Wu Ji watch also contains a retrograde date indicator as well as a power reserve indicator . The manually wound movement holds just over 50 hours of power reserve . On the rear of the watch is an additional complication ; a moon phase indicator , with a blue enameled disc . On the wrist , the Beijing Watch Factory Wu Ji is 44mm wide and sits large thanks to its wide lugs . The case comes in either 18k rose gold or platinum . The inspiration for the design is clearly Greubel Forsey - ish , but it looks decent and I am happy that it isn't just something simple and round . Nothing like a boring perfectly round case to destroy an otherwise unique wearing experience . The Infinite Universeis conservative , but has learned that boring isn't the same thing . The level of uniqueness mixed with traditional looks is an art that Europeans have learned well , and the Wu Ji is the latest to replicate that . Does it succeed ? It really depends on who you ask . Beijing Watch Factory has succeeded in impressing me - alot . Ithasalso succeeding in producing something that is both unique and interesting , but is also the type of thing that even the most snobbish watch lovers will take notice of . Complex Chinese watches are here and here to stay , and they are getting better each year . Are they alternatives to the more expensive Swiss stock ? Yes , but they aren't outright replacements . Swiss watches will probably always beat Chinese watches when it comes to sheer refinement and attention to detail . More and more I am convinced thatthis is caused by a fundamental fference in culture and values . It isn't a matter of better or worse , but what goes into the production of tiny mechanical art . Having said that , the Chinese will always beat the Swiss when it comes to price . What makes the high - end Chinese watch industry unique is that they are trying to provide something that the current culture is not set up to do as well as the Europeans , and to me that is an admirable feat . In a huge way it is ironic as the Chinese are the post ardent appreciators ofSwiss watch making craftsmanship . Perhaps because it is so counter to their own culture's production values . Pride however is strong in both cultures , and brands like the Beijing Watch Factory thrive on being able to be Chinese and be the best at what they do . As it stands we will continue to watch as the Chinese develop new and interesting movements , and no longer consider them as a a mere novelty not worth the investment of real watch lover money .
（以下为译文机翻）
虽然北京钟表厂的许多设计中的整体美学等元素本质上都是欧洲的，但它们在生产独特的产品时确实需要许多艺术自由。《无极》是他们所能创造的辉煌而雄心勃勃的例子。尽管中国的手表制造业规模庞大，但能够生产出可靠的机械手表的公司仍然有限，很少有手表爱好者会声称中国制造的机械机芯非常出色。
我不是代表所有的中国活动家，但我知道他们中的大多数都是瑞士风格的复制品。《无极》中的机制显然不是。虽然对这场表展活动的考察清楚地表明这是中国的创作，但我发现其中许多独特的元素非常有趣。我喜欢这款手表的地方在于，它的设计理念远比我想象的更深层。你看到的只是你所见的半数。首先，我将解释它是如何报时的。
如果你看着这个表盘，认为你可以像在大多数其他圆形表盘手表上一样读取时间，那就错了。事实上，只有表盘的上半部分用于读取时间。表盘上半部分放置了所有12小时的缩短刻度，时针和分针都有逆行机制，必要时可以跳回起点。如果你不知道自己在看什么，这会让表盘起初变得非常混乱。我在把玩它来设定时间，注意到它的指针在疯狂地跳来跳去。“是手表坏了吗？”我一直在思考，直到我意识到自己看到了什么。原来是表盘底部的大型双轴陀飞轮太高了，制表师决定他不想让指针越过它。时针和分针的双逆行系统旨在防止手意外触摸它。好处是，这种陀飞轮系统的手表不需要水晶中的\"气泡\"。17.2毫米厚，手表当然可以更厚。
《无极》的陀飞轮元素很有趣。你所拥有的是一个双轴陀飞轮，它基本上是一个较大陀飞轮内的较小陀飞轮。然后，您可以在表盘上使用传统的飞行陀飞轮作为单独的元素。我从未见过表盘上有两种不同类型陀飞轮的手表。至少可以说，这很有趣。传统的陀飞轮有一个令人心仪的鸟形板桥，我很喜欢。除了陀飞轮和独特的报时系统外，《无极》手表还包含逆行日期指示器和动力储备指示器。手动上弦机芯的动力储备刚刚超过50小时。手表的背面是一个额外的复杂装置；月相指示器，带蓝色搪瓷盘。在腕间，北京手表厂的《无极》表径44毫米，由于其宽大的表耳而显得很大。表壳材质有18k玫瑰金或白金两种颜色（材质）。设计的灵感显然是 Greubel - Forsey 式的，但它看起来不错，我很高兴它不仅仅是简单而圆润的东西。没有什么比无聊的完美圆形表壳更能破坏独特的佩戴体验了。《无极》是保守的，但与已有设计的无聊不是一回事。独特性与传统外观的结合是欧洲人很好地学习的一门艺术，而《无极》是最新复制这种艺术的。它成功了吗？这真的取决于你问谁。北京钟表厂给我留下了深刻的印象。它也成功地制作出了既独特又有趣的东西，但即使是最势利的手表爱好者也会注意到这种东西。复杂的中国手表已经存在并将继续存在，而且每年都在变得更好。它们是更昂贵的瑞士股票的替代品吗？是的，但它们不是完全的替代品。在纯粹的精致和对细节的关注方面，瑞士手表可能总是会击败中国手表。我越来越相信，这是由文化和价值观的根本差异造成的。这不是好坏的问题，而是微型机械艺术的生产过程。话虽如此，在价格方面，中国人总是会打败瑞士人。中国高端钟表业的独特之处在于，他们试图提供当前的（中国）文化，（从而）无法像欧洲人那样做产品，对我来说，这反而是一个令人钦佩的壮举。这在很大程度上具有讽刺意味，因为中国人是瑞士制表工艺的狂热欣赏者。也许是因为这与他们自己文化的生产价值观背道而驰。然而，自豪感在这两种文化中都很强烈，像北京钟表厂这样的品牌能够成为中国人，并在他们所做的事情上做到最好。就目前而言，我们将继续关注中国人开发新的有趣机芯，不再将其视为一种值得真正手表爱好者投资的新奇事物。
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